
Written by Drew Evans
I’ll admit, I used to think all film cameras were basically the same—just different brands with different shapes and different lenses attached. That was until I tried out a friend’s Leica M6 for a weekend street photography walk in San Francisco.
After years of shooting with my trusty Nikon FE and FM (two SLRs), the rangefinder felt completely foreign. No mirror slap, no viewfinder blackout, and this weird double-image focusing system that I couldn’t quite figure out.
But by the end of that weekend, I was hooked on something I couldn’t quite articulate. The Leica M6 had changed how I approached every shot—I felt just a little more connected to each scene. When I got my scans back, I realized that choosing between a rangefinder and an SLR isn’t just about technical specs or brand loyalty. It’s about finding a tool that matches how you see and capture the world.
Here’s what I’ve learned about both systems after years of switching between them, which I prefer, and how you can figure out which might work better for your style of photography.

How Rangefinders and SLRs Work
The fundamental difference between rangefinders and SLRs comes down to how you see and focus through them. But those differences affect more than you might think—everything from their size to how they feel to how loud they are while shooting.
So let’s start with the basics. An SLR, or a Single Lens Reflex camera, uses a mirror system that flips up and down inside the camera body. When you look through the viewfinder, you’re seeing the exact image that will hit your film, reflected off a mirror and projected through a pentaprism.
When you press the shutter, that mirror flips up (causing the characteristic “slap” sound), the shutter opens, and light hits the film. It’s a “what you see is what you get” process.
Rangefinders work completely differently. They have a separate optical viewfinder that sits above or to the side of the lens—think of it like looking through a small window. Leica cameras, for example, typically have a small window in the upper right corner of the camera body that you look through to see the scene you’re composing.
To focus, there’s a clever optical system that overlays two images in your viewfinder–when those images align perfectly, your subject is in focus. There’s no mirror, no pentaprism, and no mechanical gymnastics happening inside the camera body.
Historically, rangefinders dominated professional photography from the 1930s through the 1950s. SLRs gained popularity in the 1960s, though, as lens technology improved and photographers demanded more precise framing.




Why You Might Prefer a Rangefinder
There are a few areas where rangefinders really shine. It’s all personal, but once I experienced the differences, it was hard to go back to an SLR for certain types of shooting.
Quieter operation is the most tangible improvement. Without a mirror flipping up and down, rangefinders are much quieter. When I traveled through Spain and Portugal, my Leica M6 barely made any sound even when shooting in the quiet churches and museums. It’s much easier to stay under-the-radar when shooting in public when your camera is this quiet.
Size also makes a huge difference for everyday carrying, too. My Leica M6 with a 35mm lens fits in a small shoulder bag, and while the camera body is robust, it often doesn’t even feel much like I’m carrying a camera at all. Compare that to my Nikon F100 with a similar lens, and the difference is immediately apparent. If you’re traveling light or shooting for extended periods, this matters more than you might think.
Finally, I’d say the ability to see outside the frame is something most people don’t consider (or even know about) until they experience it. When you look through a rangefinder’s viewfinder, you typically see a wide window of everything in front of you. Depending on your focal length, you’ll see bright frame lines that tell you the boundaries of your actual composition.
It can take a bit of getting used to (what you see in your viewfinder is not necessarily what will show up on your film), but this lets you see what’s happening just outside your frame—someone walking into the shot, a gesture about to happen, or simply a better understanding of the context around your subject.



Why You Might Prefer an SLR
While rangefinders have a unique shooting experience with tons of benefits, SLRs also have their own set of strengths that make them indispensable for certain types of photography.
What-you-see-is-what-you-get experience eliminates guesswork. When you look through an SLR viewfinder, you’re seeing the exact framing, depth of field, and focus that will appear on your film. There’s no need to trust bright frame lines or estimate how your aperture choice will affect the final image.
Precise focus confirmation through the viewfinder makes critical focus easier, especially with longer lenses or in low light. Most SLRs have focusing aids (like split-image circles) that make it obvious when your subject is perfectly sharp. Rangefinder focusing, while accurate, requires more practice and can be challenging with certain subjects or lighting conditions.
Lens versatility is where SLRs really excel. Because you’re always looking through the actual lens, you can use everything from ultra-wide to super-telephoto lenses without parallax issues or viewfinder limitations. Try using a 200mm lens on a rangefinder, and you’ll quickly understand why wildlife and sports photographers gravitated toward SLRs.



Making Your Choice
Choosing between a rangefinder and SLR camera ultimately comes down to understanding your shooting style and priorities. I’ve noticed that rangefinders make me more patient and deliberate, something I tend to prefer while shooting film. Neither system is better for everything—just different ways of engaging with photography.
Here are some questions to ask yourself to help decide where to start:
How do you like to work? If you prefer blending in a bit more, a rangefinder’s size and silence are hard to beat. But if you like to have complete control over framing and focus and know exactly what your shots will look like on the other side of development, an SLR’s precision might suit you better.
What do you shoot? Street photography, travel, and documentary work often favor rangefinders. Landscapes, portraits, and anything requiring longer lenses typically work better with SLRs. That said, these aren’t hard rules—I loved shooting landscapes with my Mamiya 7 rangefinder, especially when the scene had more dynamic elements. It was easier to see outside the frame to know how to time things perfectly, like birds flying across the image or waves breaking on the beach.
What’s your experience level? If you’re new to film photography, an SLR might be more forgiving while you learn exposure and composition fundamentals. That control and more exact viewing removes one variable from the learning process. That’s not to say though that SLRs are meant for beginners!
What’s your budget? Entry-level SLRs like a Canon AE-1 or a Nikon FM are generally more affordable than rangefinders, especially if you want something like a Leica. However, there are some excellent rangefinders like the Canonet or Yashica Electro that offer the rangefinder experience without the premium price tag.



Finding Your Match
Photography isn’t about using the “right” camera—it’s about finding tools that help you create the images you want. What matters most is understanding how each system affects your approach to photography, then choosing the one that feels most natural for your style. Maybe you’ll try out and love rangefinders. Maybe you’ll prefer an SLR. Or maybe, like many of us, you’ll end up appreciating both for different reasons.
But at the end of the day, the best camera is the one you’ll actually want to pick up and use. Take your time, try both systems if possible, and trust your instincts. Your photography journey is uniquely yours—choose the tools that make it most enjoyable.



Thank you so much, Drew! Drew is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out his other articles here, such as Mastering Film for Landscape Photographers and 7 Film Photography Terms You Need to Know.
You can also check out more of Drew’s work on his Instagram.
Leave your questions about shooting film below in the comments!

Blog Comments
Anthony
June 20, 2025 at 11:35 am
I was perplexed that DREW was confused about the M-6 split image rangefinder. It is a very simple thing to comprehend.
Joan
June 20, 2025 at 1:50 pm
Good explanation. I love my Mamiya 6 for very different reasons than loving my Nikon F100.
Beautiful photos. Would you tell us which b/w film you were using?
Christopher Welch
June 20, 2025 at 3:59 pm
Thanks for the article Drew. I have a Yashica Electro 35 and a pair of Pentax- Spotmatic and K1000. I love those SLRs and have had them for almost 25 years. The Yashica is new to me and I am still getting used to it and trying to like it. I don’t know… I’m not there yet. I love the viewfinder and how quiet it is, but it is hard to focus. Was this a problem for you at first with the M6?
Margaret
June 20, 2025 at 6:06 pm
I enjoyed this article. It would be great to know, though, what film was used to make the images, especially the color ones. (In fact, that would be great if all articles mentioned the film stock — many do, but not all.)
Thanks —
Brett Rogers
June 21, 2025 at 2:54 am
“What-you-see-is-what-you-get experience eliminates guesswork. When you look through an SLR viewfinder, you’re seeing the exact framing, depth of field, and focus that will appear on your film. There’s no need to trust bright frame lines or estimate how your aperture choice will affect the final image.”
(1)
There are a small number of exceptions, most notable probably being the Nikon F. But how do you see the “exact framing” of your film frame, when the overwhelming majority of single lens reflex cameras do not feature viewfinders which display 100% coverage of that recorded film frame? (Certain older Zenits could be some of the worst offenders with well under 90% coverage of the film gate; Pignons, on the other hand intentionally cropped the Alpa finder coverage commensurate with the amount of frame edge lost by a mounted slide).
(2)
Unless you are exposing at your lens maximum aperture; how do you get to view your image through your SLR finder at the depth of field that will “appear on your film”, if the camera does not have a depth of field preview function? Granted, some early SLRs feature no auto aperture capability at all—by default, you are, indeed, viewing at your selected aperture before releasing the shutter. I have a few such SLRs in my own collection. But these are uncommonly being actively used, today. If one is using, for instance, the ubiquitous, (and overrated and overpriced) K1000—how is one to Eg. preview that scene exposed at f/11, prior to exposure—at f/11?