Written by Drew Evans
Deciding on a camera is always a challenge. Even if you’ve been shooting with analog cameras for years, deciding on your next purchase is a big decision to make.
These days especially, purchasing a roll of film and a camera to run it through isn’t quite as affordable as it once was.
After shooting with a digital setup for nearly a decade and slowly seeing my enthusiasm for photography wane, I decided to bite the bullet and made the decision to pick up the camera that had long been a dream of mine: the Leica M6.
Once it had been delivered, I opened up the box, turned my newly acquired 50mm lens in place, lifted the viewfinder to my eye, and…
…immediately felt a bit terrified.
Did I buy the wrong camera? Is this oft-discussed “rangefinder” thing not right for me?
I thought I had done plenty of research on the topic, but feeling it in person and using it practically are very different from reading articles online.
Throughout my months of browsing forums and reading up on Leicas (and M6s in particular), I gathered a short list of tips to help you get the most out of your current (or soon-to-be) Leica M6.
You can also check out my in-depth review of the Leica M6 here.
Find the Lecia M6 at KEH Camera or on eBay.
1. Figure Out If a Rangefinder is Right for You
Why would someone start a list of “tips” on buying and using a Leica M6 with something so obvious?
I’ve had a number of photographer friends pine after a certain camera just to pick it up and realize it wasn’t for them.
With most current digital cameras, you’re (more often than not) deciding between Mirrorless and DSLR, two systems that function very similarly. I used a Nikon D800 and moved to a Sony a7r II – while the viewfinders are different, the shooting experience is very, very similar.
Using a Leica M6 (and all rangefinders), however, is very different from shooting with an SLR. Focusing is something to get used to, and it’s something you’re better off knowing ahead of time.
Learn more about rangefinders and how to use them here.
Image from the Lecia M6 manual
2. Understanding the Difference Between the Leica M6 and M6 TTL
Okay, so you’ve landed on picking up a Leica M6. Which one?
Ignoring the limited edition versions or colors Leica made over the years, there are two main options for the Leica M6: the M6 and the M6 TTL (find on eBay).
Aside from the additional TTL flash capability and the different light meter look (see below), there is only one main difference between these two models: the shutter speed knob.
This is a hot topic amongst some M6 owners, too. The Leica M6 TTL’s shutter knob is bigger and rotates in a different direction, something that some believe is the better option.
If this doesn’t matter to you (it didn’t to me), focus on finding the right color and the right viewfinder for you.
Which leads us to…
3. Finding the Perfect Viewfinder (For You)
This is finally where picking the right camera makes a big functional difference.
Over the years, Leica cameras have changed viewfinders and the respective framelines that appear within the window. The early Leica M3 only had framelines for 50mm / 90mm / 135mm, meaning you needed an external hotshoe viewfinder for any other focal length.
However, with later cameras (including the M6), additional coupled framelines were added, and viewfinder options were created with varying magnifications.
This is a big decision, as it dictates what lenses you can use and how easy it will be to focus.
For example, with the standard .72 viewfinder, the 28mm lines are hard to see (especially with glasses) as they extend all the way to the very edges of the viewfinder. In fact, if you pick up a .85 viewfinder, you won’t get 28mm framelines at all!
Here is a great visual comparison of the different viewfinders and the framelines.
The best advice is to take notice of what focal lengths you use most and decide based on that.
I spent a lot of time trying to plan what I might want to shoot and how often, which ultimately led me down a rabbit hole of indecision. I was then reminded that Adobe Lightroom actually keeps track of focal lengths that you use, and I quickly found that the vast majority of my images on my Sony cameras were shot using 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm.
That made my decision on what viewfinder to pick much easier.
Ultimately, only you know what you like best – an article on the internet shouldn’t make that decision for you.
4. Loading Your Film Correctly – and Making Sure It’s Ready to Shoot
Loading film with the Leica M6 was an early challenge for me, and I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t messed up a roll or two since owning it.
Luckily, there’s a beautiful diagram under the bottom plate of every M6 that details exactly how to load properly.
Here’s where things get a bit more interesting.
There seem to be two distinct opinions about what to do after you put in a new roll of film. Do you put the bottom plate back on then advance? Or advance then put the plate back on?
Ultimately, it’s probably not as big of a deal as some make it out to be. I always put the plate back on, and then advance a few frames. But some wait to make sure the film is loaded properly and they can see it on the spool.
The truth is that Leicas were built with this in mind, and you don’t need to see it to believe it.
The trick is pretty simple: if you start to advance your film and notice the rewind crank on the top left of your camera DOES NOT rotate, the film didn’t catch and isn’t loaded properly. If it’s ready to shoot, the crank will rotate.
Note: The inner spool has teeth that catch the film when loading it up, but you do not need to put your fingers in the back to make sure it’s lined up properly. It’s actually advised against – the camera is built to catch the film naturally, so don’t put your hands in it!
5. Learn Your Meter!
As I mentioned before, the standard Leica M6 and the M6 TTL have two similar but distinct meters. They both have the same meter built in, but the way they read through the viewfinder is different.
The standard M6 has two arrows side by side (like this: > < ) that show the exposure readout. When > is showing, you’re underexposed. When < shows, you’re overexposed. When > < appears, you’re evenly exposed.
The M6 TTL has two arrows and a dot in the middle (like this: > o < ). Many think that this meter readout is much better, as it adds two additional states of exposure.
When > is showing, that means you’re at least one stop underexposed, and < means you’re at least one stop overexposed. This meter adds > o (half-stop underexposed) and o < (half-stop overexposed), allowing for more precise readouts and more control over your exposure.
It’s a minor difference, but if you’re picking up a camera as your everyday carry and want something precise and as easy as possible to rely on, you might have a preference.
6. Don’t Forget to Flip the Rewind Switch!
This one is very quick and more of a cautionary piece of advice, as I imagine every Leica M6 owner has done this at least once:
Flip the rewind switch on the front of your camera before rewinding your film!
If you don’t, it’s very possible that your film gets damaged or ruined as it rewinds into the spool. Maybe you’ll be fine, but it’s certainly not worth the risk of ruining a potentially great roll of film because you forgot to flip a switch.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, the Leica M6 is a beautifully crafted tool that is likely to last a lifetime.
While it might not make you a better photographer and may cost an arm and a leg to purchase in 2022, you certainly won’t be disappointed if you do decide to pick one up.
Hopefully these small pieces of advice will help you find the right camera and know exactly what to do when using it!
Thank you so much, Drew! Drew is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out his other articles here, such as the Leica M6 35mm Film Camera Review.
You can also check out more of Drew’s work on his Instagram.
Let us know any questions you have about the Leica M6 below in the comments, and you can pick up one for yourself at KEH Camera or on eBay.
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Blog Comments
Andre
February 18, 2022 at 10:49 am
Nice tips! One side info: The classic M6 also indicates if you have half stop over or underexposure by reducing the glow of the arrows. If its fully lit, you are under or overexpsoing by at least one stop, if its half strength its half a stop 🙂
Johnny Martyr
February 18, 2022 at 10:59 am
That’s a good point about the LED brightness – same goes for the M6 TTL.
Drew Evans
February 18, 2022 at 4:30 pm
Didn’t know that the LED brightness was an indicator! Great fact to keep in mind as I’m out and about next.
Johnny Martyr
February 18, 2022 at 11:12 am
Cool rundown on some major topics for a new Leica shooter. The viewfinder selection and loading tips I found most important.
A couple other buying points that I think are important:
–Viewfinder magnification affects not only the framelines but how accurate the EBL is and therefore, those who shoot with faster lenses may want to consider a higher magnification finder also.
–M6 and M6 TTL have a flaring problem of the RF patch that can cause it to completely white out in some lighting conditions. I would recommend buying one that’s been upgraded to correct this or factoring in the upgrade cost with the purchase of the camera.
–Don’t store an M6 in anything like a fitted case, in a humid climate as this can cause the zinc top plate to oxidize.
–There are common reports of some M6’s and M6 TTL’s draining battery prematurely if they are not switched to the off or B position while put into a case. Apparently the shutter release can be pressed unintentionally and cause the meter to come on if the shutter dial is left in other positions. I also don’t use a soft shutter release for this reason. And if you do have a battery drain issue, you can use one 3 volt lithium battery instead of the common two 1.5 volt batteries to extend time between changes.
These are wonderful cameras and deserve more informative articles like yours, thanks for sharing.
Drew Evans
February 18, 2022 at 4:33 pm
Thanks Johnny – fantastic points to add. My M6 definitely has been prone to flaring at certain times, though it’s never been too bad. I did have a battery drain issue when I was using a soft shutter, so I’ve stopped using it since.
I’ve also suggestions that you shouldn’t store them in a humidity-controlled dry cabinet. Do you know much about that? I have one and have been storing all of my cameras there, but don’t want to pass around incorrect info about that.
Johnny Martyr
February 19, 2022 at 3:30 pm
The flaring is worst with the higher magnification finders and of course comes down to a lot of personal use/preference. I had my .85x TTL upgraded and really enjoy the difference. But it may not be necessary for a .72 or a less picky shooter!
The battery drain thing has never happened with me but I’m also of the mindset, after losing several expensive soft releases, that those things are a big of a joke anyway!
Yes, you’re absolutely right about humidity concerns although I think putting an M6 in a dry cabinet is rather extreme and probably not good for the cloth shutter. I didn’t bring this up because I think it’s a bit of an overblown topic. But the zinc used in the top plate can oxidize, not only if left in a humid climate but additionally if stored in the original fitted case. Apparently a nasty chemical reaction between the zinc and material that the case was made of can occur IF the air is also humid. So you sometimes will see M6’s for sale with a type of “acne” on them as a result of this.
I live on the East Coast in a moderately humid area and keep my cameras in a glass and wood China cabinet beside a curtained window. This allows some veiled sunlight to prevent mold or oxidation and allows me to see all my options easily before a shoot. I have traveled to the Dominican Republic with my M6 multiple times for week+ stays and experienced no issues with oxidation in that humidity. I’m lead to believe that this issue is caused more by lack of use and improper storage than something that the average photographer should worry about. It is often cited by brass-enthusiasts as a reason that the M6 is inferior to previous and newer M’s. But in all reality, zinc is much harder than brass and will not dent when dropped or hit, so it is much better at protecting the delicate rangefinder mechanism and electronics than brass.
Philip Thomas
October 14, 2022 at 10:53 am
Drew- great points, writing, and fabulous photography.
John Garner
January 16, 2023 at 11:06 pm
I live in Florida and I have not had any problems with our infamous humidity with any of my “M’s” film or digital (m3 (ds, ss), M6, M9, M9M, but I keep them in a dry storage space when not in use. The most critical issue I have experienced is the the traveling slit curtains will come out of sync as the shutter speed changes over time (non-digital). A quality “Cla” usually fixes the problem. If you are a first time owner of a Leica M, I would highly suggest the 50mm f2.0 Summicon as your first lens. It’s small, light, fast and sharp as a tack. Also, I would not recommend modern optics as the older “M’s” cannot compensate and high priced when compared to older generations . Another thing, practice loading with a bad roll of film as there some differences in the various models. Once learned, you can load in the dark. The digital M’s are different and have their own uniqueness between the models. John