
Written by Neil Milton
Every penny’s a prisoner is a well-known phrase to many a Scot. It is often spoken in fond, mock irritation of a miserly relative. I drag it out occasionally to make fun of myself when taking advantage of an enticing deal.
Still, I’m not known for being thrifty, and my own choice of camera system portrays a taste for the more expensive that life has to offer.
As a Leica M photographer using both digital and film bodies, I may not be the most relatable voice to write about about the cost of film photography versus digital photography, however, it has drifted into my thoughts over the last few weeks, and, as I return to Shoot It With Film after a hiatus, I thought I should scratch this itch.

Film | Leica M6 | Kodak Tri-x 400
My Experience with Film and Digital Photography
Is photographing on film really more expensive than making photographs on digital cameras?
I started my life in photography on digital cameras, and as I learned the craft, I fell in love with the beautiful, photojournalistic grain that was characteristic of the Kodak Tri-X 400 film used in the photographs of many of my favorites like Cartier-Bresson, Robert Frank, and Garry Winogrand. I was tempted to try my hand at shooting with film, but even in the mid-2000s, the accepted wisdom was that analog photography was just too damn expensive.
Instead, I found a usable film emulation and gave my photographs a decent approximation of that famous grain.
It took 15 years, and a world-defining global pandemic for me to finally decide it was time to give film a try, and for several years, I stuck to my Leica M3 and, with a little financial outlay, a fridgeful of Tri-X.
Only this year, when I started to again work for a photo agency, I realized I had to return to the 1s and 0s of digital, and, in March, I bought the Leica M11-P, which has become my workhorse digital body.

Film | Leica M6 | Kodak Tri-x 400

Digital | Leica M11-P

Comparing Film and Digital Photography Costs
In late Autumn, I was asked by a young photographer who asked me to mentor them whether film or digital photography was more expensive, and, in an odd coincidence, a photo editor I follow on Instagram, Emily Keegin, authored a series of stories on her thoughts on this very subject. That would be a great Shoot It With Film article, I thought. And here we are.
For this article, I’ve set the Leicas aside, and have focused on midrange, prosumer-level gear. I’ve tried, where possible, to compare like for like, but, as they say, your mileage may vary
For each, I have tried to be fair in my cost estimations. I’ve compared private, store, and eBay sales and made a rough average. I’ve erred on the more expensive side for each as a worst-case scenario, and, in all cases, I’ve opted for gear in near-mint or mint condition.
I’ve also chosen to set aside anything that may be useful for both film and digital photography, so there won’t be any discussion of tripods, filters, cases, bags, and the like. Let’s get on with it.

Film | Leica M3 | Kodak Tri-x 400

Film | Leica M3 | Kodak Tri-x 400

Digital | Leica M11-P
Related: The Leica M3: A Comprehensive Guide
The Cost of Film and Digital Camera Systems
For this comparison, I’ve chosen a Canon AE-1 35mm SLR (find at KEH Camera or on eBay) as the analog choice. A solid, dependable body, and with a shutter that lends its voice to Apple’s camera app. Every time you’re making a photograph on the iPhone or iPad, you hear the sound of the AE-1.
From what I can find, the AE-1 body currently sells for approximately 150 Euros ($150 USD). If this comes bundled with a lens, all the better, but let’s add a Canon FD 50mm f1.8 lens in mint condition for a maximum of 50 Euros ($52).
Finally, we should account for cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting (CLA) of the camera, particularly if bought online with no opportunity to test. A good CLA certainly helps me feel more confident the camera won’t drag to a halt halfway through a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Costs for CLA vary spectacularly, however, I found highly recommended workshops advertising 100 to 200 Euros ($105-$210) for a CLA, so let’s add the top end to our costs.
With the analog taken care of, it’s time to pick out a digital option. Sticking with Canon, the Japanese manufacturer hasn’t taken to the trend of retro digital bodies as its competitor Nikon has. While a full-frame sensor would be a more like-for-like comparison, it would render this comparison somewhat ridiculous given the disparity in price, so I’ve opted for a mirrorless camera with an APS-C sensor, the Canon R50 (find on Amazon).
At a decent price, this camera will set you back between 500 to 700 Euros ($700). For a lens, the clear choice is the RF 50mm f1.8 for 200 Euros ($200). There’s no need for a light meter except in niche circumstances, so we can save some money there, but we will need a decent memory card. Variety in price for these is wild, so let’s budget for a 256GB Sandisk for around 75 Euros ($80).
Another consideration, particularly with mirrorless cameras, is sensor cleaning. Though some photographers don’t want to touch the sensor and would prefer to have a professional do it, let’s consider ourselves brave and every quarter we’ll buy sensor cleaning swabs, adding up to around 100 Euros ($105) per year.
So far, our digital choice of an R50 with a 50mm lens and a memory card has cost us 1075 Euros ($1116). Score 1 for film photography then? I think so, yes.
But it doesn’t stop there. An AE-1 purchased today will be the same AE-1 purchased three years from now. There are no hardware or software improvements, there are no megapixels added. In contrast, purchase a Canon R50 today, and in a few years, a new model will replace it. A new model with a faster autofocus, a new model with a better processor, and a new model with higher resolution. We may not necessarily feel the need to upgrade, but for the sake of argument, let’s say we do. That’s another 700 Euros ($726) added to digital’s tally, while film is keeping us frugal.
We’ve picked up a Canon 35mm SLR with a 50mm lens, we’ve had it CLA-ed, and this has cost us 400 Euros ($415) at most.
In contrast, our digital option over three years has cost us 1975 Euros ($2050). Ouch.

Digital | Leica M11-P

Film | Leica M6 | Kodak Tri-x 400
The Cost of Consumables: AKA Buying Film
Where the FOMU (Fear of Missing Upgrades) powered by rampant unchecked capitalism makes the digital choice expensive, it is in consumables where analog photography becomes unstuck. It is in the price of film, development, and its expendable nature, that analog photography gets its costly reputation.
The only consumable of note for digital photography is the batteries needed to power the R50. One will come with the camera, of course, but it seems responsible to have a spare which will cost around 50 Euros ($52). If we buy a further 3 batteries in the space of 5 years, and we buy a spare memory card and then both over time, we bring our digital consumables to a total cost of 425 Euros ($441).
The number of rolls of film shot per year by a reader of Shoot It With Film can vary. From the reading I’ve done and asking around, as an average, I’ve decided to settle on 50 rolls per year. I burn through over double that, and there may be some who shoot less. We’ll stick with 50 and if this is a wild underestimation, I’m sure I’ll hear of it in the comments. Of course, there is a wide spectrum of film stocks and prices to choose from. For this comparison, I’ve opted for a staple stock for both black and white and color.
For 35mm Kodak Tri-X, the going rate seems to be around 10 Euros ($11) per roll. For color, I was tempted to go with Portra, but decided we’ll stick with Kodak Gold 200. In much the same way as a full-frame sensor above, the sheer cost of the option would skew the comparison.
As a black and white shooter, I was surprised to find that Gold 200 retails for also around 10 Euros ($11). That makes this calculation a lot easier. So, 50 rolls, 10 Euros per roll. 500 Euros ($520) for a year over 3 years: 1500 Euros ($1560). For the sake of our sanity and not getting stuck in the weeds, let’s double that for lab processing, prints and/or scans. 3000 Euros ($3115) over 3 years.
So, film now certainly seems like it’s a lot more expensive. Our analog option has added up to 3400 ($3530).
Our digital choices are now totaling 2400 Euros ($2500), so a good 1000 Euros less expensive than its analog equivalent.

Film | Leica M3 | Kodak Tri-x 400

Film | Leica M6 | Kodak Tri-x 400
Image Storage and Other Costs
While one may argue that analog photography is now something of a verbose method of creating and ending with digital files, I want to look at film photography in this article as a purely physical process ending with work prints.
Of course, if one chooses to scan every frame of a negative, this requires digital storage, however, this is a choice. In digital photography, there is no choice.
While it may be controversial, it is for that reason that I’m separating out digital storage and back-up solutions and laying it squarely at the feet of digital photography, while for analog photography, we will consider physically storing negatives and prints.
Storing negatives and prints, while at times complex, is not an expensive affair. I shoot over 100 rolls of Tri-X per year, and my storage solution of sleeves, folders, and boxes costs no more than 50 Euros in 12 months. Let’s add 150 Euros ($155) to our analog photography 3-year total and move swiftly on to digital.
It is in storage, software, and back-ups that digital starts to make up the ground lost to analog photography in the high cost of rolls of film. For my agency work, I shoot in RAW on a digital Leica M11-P. I have an external 2TB solid state hard drive, with an identical one for a local back-up, each costing approximately 250 Euros ($260). I use IDrive as a software to manage my back-ups, which also gives me 5TB of cloud storage for an off-site back-up of my photographs. This costs approximately 300 Euros ($312) over our 3 years.
I won’t insult anyone’s intelligence, so I will presume that anyone reading this likely has a computer already, and I won’t add that to the digital cost, however, we should consider software. Adobe’s Photography package with Lightroom and Photoshop costs 12 Euros per month. Add that up over 3 years and we are saying goodbye to 432 Euros ($450). While many hobbyists may be content to work on photoshop using a trackpad or a mouse, the more serious digital photographers will want to pick up a graphics tablet and pen. Second-hand, I found my Wacom Intuos Pro S tablet for 50 Euros ($52) on eBay. A bargain.
After our storage and other costs, our analog option is 3550 Euros ($3686), whereas our digital option has now risen to the lofty sum of 3682 Euros ($3823).

Digital | Leica M11-P

Digital | Leica M11-P
In Conclusion
Setting the costs of film photography side by side with the costs associated with digital photography, it’s useful to see that over 3 years, taking into account upgrades, software costs, and other related purchases, there is very little difference in outlay.
While the costs for almost all of the above can vary dramatically, it is clear the main, dramatic cost of film photography is in the film stocks themselves. While I’ve chosen Kodak Tri-X and Gold for the comparison above, there are many film stocks that are considerably cheaper, particularly the excellent boutique stocks that have appeared over the last few years.
At the end of the day, I wanted to write this article on the one hand as an encouragement to those unsure whether to opt for digital or analog. Analog isn’t radically more expensive.
On the other, I hope this may prove useful for those conversations around the dinner table – conversations with those relatives baffled by the choice to opt for such an antiquated medium. Surely it’s an expensive business, making photographs on film, they may ask. No more than with digital you can reply.

Film | Leica M3 | Kodak Tri-x 400

Digital | Leica M11-P

Film | Leica M6 | Kodak Tri-x 400
Thank you so much, Neil! Neil is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out his other articles here, such as Street Photography: 5 Assignments for Beginners and Getting Started with Concert Photography on Film.
You can find more of Neil’s work on his website, and sign up for his street photography newsletter here.
Leave your questions about film vs digital photography below in the comments!

Blog Comments
Toby
January 10, 2025 at 10:56 am
I think one thing that digital shooters tend not to account for is how their equipment depreciates in value. A three year old digital camera could well have lost half of its value when you come to trade it in. A film camera will likely keep its value or even appreciate a little. This happens whether use the camera or not so a digital camera costs you money every week even if it is sat on the shelf.
Neil
January 10, 2025 at 6:11 pm
Hi Toby, that’s a fair point. I didn’t consider trading in as a discount when buying a new digital. Your wider point, I completely agree with. In a few years, my M11 will have depreciated, my M3 will have the same value.
Tate
January 10, 2025 at 12:06 pm
I always like to see these comparisons. But I have to disagree with one premise. Why do you need to upgrade your digital cameras every 3 years. I photographed youth baseball for 11 years. I used the same Nikon D3 I bought used the entire time to take over 400,000 pictures. I sent it out for a CLA once a year and it just kept working and making me pictures.
Neil
January 10, 2025 at 6:13 pm
Hah! I knew that would be controversial. It was based on a bit of reading I did when preparing the article. There was something about most hobbyists upgrade their digital camera between 3 to 5 years due to improvements in sensor, firmware, etc. No one’s under any obligation to do it, but people do do it, it seems.
James
January 10, 2025 at 12:08 pm
I think due to lack of time, ability, or equipment/darkroom many/most film shooters send their film out for development; also, often they will have it scanned by the shop at an additional cost as well since digital is the primary means of sharing. Yours is a great article, I like film, but these are all a very significant cost; even postage costs money or even time/gas to go drop off. Also, your choice of “cheap” film skews the comparison. Most people I know choose the high end quality stuff; that’s why they shoot analog.
Neil
January 10, 2025 at 6:17 pm
I’m not sure I’d call Tri-X “cheap” film. As for the colour, I don’t shoot it, so I asked a number of friends what would be a bog-standard, every day colour film, and we chose Gold. That’s all. Of course, you can go nuts and use expensive boutique film, but in the same sense, one could buy a Leica digital. Horses for courses. I was trying to provide an equal playing field as best as I could.
Thanks for commenting… this is by far the most comments I’ve had on an article. I didn’t think it would be quite such a fiery issue. 🙂
Jondr
January 10, 2025 at 12:12 pm
I love and have used film for 40yrs.
Digital is way cheaper. If you want to take pictures on film at a moments notice then you will need 2 bodies minimum. Then there is the inconvenience of managing film. The processing , the scanning. Sure you can pay to have it done.
If I send colour film for a dev and scan it’s £1 a shot including film.
The time taken to dev, scan and adjust is colossal.
I enjoy it all the same. But cheaper it is not
Therese
January 10, 2025 at 1:36 pm
While this makes my heart sing to read, I must also disagree. As a Canadian; the costs are way more for the film. I’m paying over $20 a roll for TriX and up to $36 a roll for Portra (thank god for Gold that is only $21 a roll!). The cost of developing at my local lab is $9 a roll. Printing and scanning are extra and not at a quality that I can use for anything other than social media, so I needed to purchase scanning equipment (eventually settled on a copy stand and my Canon mirrorless R6m2, plus a 100mm macro lens). I can assure you, it would be much cheaper to just shoot with that camera and lens!
I’m in photographic art school right now and I’m shooting on average 10 rolls per week. I do it because I love it, not because it is affordable. I’m grateful I can develop black and white on my own and save a bit of money there!
ernest
January 10, 2025 at 2:40 pm
It’s funny how somebody who paid 10k for a Leica, gives us tips on money spent on gear. how fair it is to compare a full frame with a crop digital (and not even the same fov lenses)? and why we should buy another one in 2-3 years? this is how he is doing with leicas?
if money is the only reason, for those low number of shots per week, you can do very well with the latest iphone/samsung and spend the extra money on tickets to places to go to photograph.
Neil
January 10, 2025 at 6:09 pm
To be fair, Ernest, I’m also Scottish and as I mentioned in the article, for the average Scot, every penny’s a prisoner.
Comparison with full frame analog to full frame digital? It wouldn’t have even been a competition – digital would have been the more expensive by several thousand quid.
You’re under no obligation to buy another camera in 3 or 4 years time, but many digital photographers do. That’s capitalism for you.
Thanks for commenting, though.
Jondr
January 11, 2025 at 2:39 am
I agree.
Interesting article.
My costs in the uk are much the same. I have undeveloped film in the fridge. The cost of sending it to the lab would be £500. That doesn’t include the cost of the film. So the
price of a cheap dslr. I dev all my black and white so it’s considerably cheaper than sending it to the lab, but the time cost is massive.
Jerzy
January 10, 2025 at 3:15 pm
My main issue with film photography is accessibility of labs offering processing. C-41 processing is still available to a reasonable degree (with the exception of 120 film). 120, slide, and B&W must be sent away, and the cost is exorbitant. Processing alone for a roll of B&W (no prints) is over $30.00 and you need to wait 10 – 14 days. At least where I live, and that’s a huge city. So the only option to make it sustainable is to process film at home. Still love both film, and B&W. What I find amusing is the volume of software available to make digital images look like film. Isn’t that cheating a little bit?
Thanks.
Christopher Welch
January 10, 2025 at 3:46 pm
Thanks for the comparison article but I think your digital “FOMU” is grossly underestimated. I know a few digital hobbyists who have spent more on digital upgrades- bodies and lenses, than you spent on your digital Leica and in that timeframe I’m still using 3 analog cameras I bought over 20 years ago and paid almost nothing for them. Digital photography is a very deep rabbit hole and I think you’ll spend far more than you would analog.
Neil
January 10, 2025 at 6:23 pm
I agree… Though I had to keep it reasonable otherwise digital would have shot away ahead in cost. Even then, there are a few comments above taking issue with the suggestion one would upgrade a digital body as soon as 3 years. It definitely happens.
David B.
January 10, 2025 at 6:40 pm
Having a foot in both camps, I agree with you that the costs are not quite as different as what is commonly stated. I spent a number of years covering dance competitions and another cost that snuck up on me was archived storage costs. I have about 400 to 500k of images stored on CDs (early on) and DVDs, first single sided, then double layer discs. We tend to dismiss all of this because if you have any computer gear at all you already have these items. However, there costs need to be included if you need them to archive. With film, I always have the negatives, and, I don’t have to scan every frame, I can be selective and only scan after editing. I think the real trick here is that you have to consider the total cost of ownership, not just per frame cost, which what most of us tend to do. Good article.
Reiner
January 11, 2025 at 3:16 am
Many mentioned it already: time investment is my main reason to stay away from analog now; spent 2 days dev+scanning+editing(dust spots!) on my last 3 rolls of HP5+ medium format; even not counting in making darkroom prints on my enlarger which I even don’t consider starting with anymore; it’s all too damned time consuming; for C41 on the other hand it would be feasible dropping of the rolls at the lab and only scanning afterwards, camera scanning would give an even bigger time reduction instead of the flatbed slow horse. But C41 dev in Belgium gets so much defects(scratches and bad chemicals) I don’t consider it worthy anymore to pump in the cash and having to invest editing way too much afterwards to get descent results. Very good article Neil, thanks!
Ray (Adelaide, Sth Australia)
January 11, 2025 at 6:29 am
Neil, there’s one intangible aspect not mentioned in your comprehensive article: enjoyment. I started taking photos about 50 years ago. I’ve had a Nikon D300 for over 10 years that accepts most of my Nikon film lenses. I used it almost exclusively for many years with only occasional film work, but eventually got to a point where I just didn’t get the same enjoyment from digital that I get using my film cameras where every frame was a measured experience. I shoot 35mm, 120/220 roll-film and LF (4×5, 8×10) and do my own b&w (my favourite), colour neg and transparency developing. I don’t shoot film just for the sake of taking a photo and I don’t take a lot of photos. Every frame for me has to be something I enjoy. I use several types of film depending upon what the subject is. So for me cost is not the over-riding factor, but even so doing my own processing reduces the cost of photo labs, plus, importantly, I get enormous enjoyment out of doing my own processing. I still use my D300 (and even sometimes my mobile ‘phone), but it’s mostly for taking ‘record’ photos like birthdays etc. where I can quickly send them by e-mail to family. If you don’t get enjoyment out of the careful measured approach to taking film, then stay with digital.
Myron Christodoulides
January 11, 2025 at 12:04 pm
What a great article; I had always thought digital was cheaper, in that it offered the advantage of taking countless shots over and over again to capture that definitive moment. Try it with film and you’re using a motor drive to run through your stock (didn’t matter in the ‘old days’). Digital cameras have come a long way and endless purchases were driven by the pixel chase; I,m not sure how many megapixels one needs on a digital camera these days, and at what point the gains are too small to notice. Same for the sensors I suppose. I’m still happy to shoot on my venerable M6 and a couple of prime lenses, and do my own scanning to choose those images that are good enough to have printed/blown up. Analogue still provides the thrill of photography, but digital can make everyone capable of taking decent pictures without training.
Gary
January 12, 2025 at 1:35 am
Interesting article, but I suspect a large majority of people who shoot film, shoot digital also. I know I do. Consequently, it’s not an either-or choice and the quest becomes how to save money in both types of photography.
Craig
January 12, 2025 at 10:11 am
Interesting article, but there’s a lot that’s not a fair comparison at all.
For starters, since you’re getting your film developed by a lab, you don’t have the ability to edit them like you do digital images, so a better comparison is to shoot JPG on the digital and do away with Lightroom/Photoshop (although to be fair all digital cameras come with image processing software for free) so this is a non-issue. Unless you process the scanned film images, then the price is the same for subscription/software.
Next you can buy a used full frame DSLR for about the same price as a new R50. Why not go that route and even up the playing field?
Thirdly, try shooting 500 images in a session on film (at 36 shots per roll at your $11.00/roll, that’s $152 per session) whereas digital is just the cost for an SD card which is not that expensive.
Overall, in the long term, I think digital is a lot cheaper.
ROBERT BARR
January 13, 2025 at 11:22 am
Looking at the prices at KEH I find that the cost of film cameras have now gone way up compared to 5 years ago.