Written by Jennifer Stamps
In a perfect world, I shoot with one camera at a time. Only one camera and one roll of film to account for at any given time. But, alas, this is not a perfect world.
Often, I find myself with several cameras that have rolls of film in them. So – how do you keep track of it all?
Over the years, I feel like I’ve perfected the best naming convention to keep it all organized… including instant film.
Organizing Your Film Files
For the sake of this article, when I use the term “film” I mean a roll of film that you load into your camera that produces negatives that then need to be developed. Instant film is for Polaroids and Instax film.
I’ll break this article down into a few sections:
- Keeping track of film rolls, negatives, and scans
- Keeping track of instant film
Supplies Needed
- A notebook that you can put in your camera bag – I love pocket Moleskin hardcover notebook – I’m on my third one!
- Any writing utensil
- Four-inch three-ring binder that zips up – I have two of these.
- Three-ring negative preservers for 35mm film and 120 film
- Any online/cloud storage – I prefer Dropbox
- Polaroid Album or Instax Album – whatever you shoot with
Disclaimer: Remember this is my system. I love details. I love order. I’m a little bit extra when it comes to organization. So, if this is too much for you, adjust it. Maybe you don’t care about when you started and ended the roll. Add and remove things here that make sense for you and your workflow!
Keeping Track of Film, Negatives, and Scans
Keeping track of film starts at the analog level… the notebook!
Each roll of film receives a unique number from me based on the year and how many rolls I’ve shot so far this year. It looks like this: 2401, 2402, 2403, etc.
So if it’s 2024 and I’m shooting my 45 roll of film for the year, that roll is labeled: 2445.
Using the Notebook to Track Film Rolls
In my notebook, I write:
- The roll number (2445)
- An empty box for me to check off later
- Camera I’m using
- The film I’m shooting with
- What speed I’m shooting the film at (box speed, pushed 1 stop, etc)
- Date I put the roll in the camera
- Date I finished the roll
- When I developed it / when I sent it to the lab
- Any additional notes I might have: trip, special event, notes for developing, etc
File Naming Scans and Cloud Storage
Once the roll is developed, I go back to these notes when I’m saving the photos to the cloud. My file format is based on year and then film format.
Once I have my images, I create a folder under the correct year and format. So, for example, if I shot a roll of 120 in my Holga this year, it would go under 2024 > 120 Film.
From there, I create a folder using the roll number (2445 from above). Because I’m extra, I also include the CAMERA, FILM TYPE, and CITY or EVENT in the folder title. So, if I shot a roll of 120 Kodak Gold in my Holga 120n in Paris, the folder would be labeled something like this: 2445_KodakGold_Holga120n_Paris.
This is a HUGE help when I’m looking for a specific photo I took but can’t remember exactly when I took it. Having these notes in my notebook helps when creating these folders.
Once the photos are in their cloud storage folder, I check off the empty box in my notebook for that corresponding roll of film (bullet number two above). This lets me know that 1) I finished the roll; 2) it’s developed; and 3) I have received the scanned images!
Note: If I’m developing and scanning the roll at home, I’ll save each image by the roll number and shot number. For example: 2445_01; 2445_02; etc.
If I send the roll of film out to be developed and scanned, I usually do not rename the images. I keep the lab’s names and just put them in the correct folder. However, this would be an easy fix if you upload them into Lightroom and export them using the naming convention for that roll of film. It’s just an extra step for me since I usually don’t edit my scans once I receive them from the lab.
Physical Storage for Negatives
This system is much more simple.
When I have the negatives in my hand, I return to my notebook. I put the negatives in the negative preserve sheets. From there, I add the roll number, and sometimes I add other details to the top – but it’s unnecessary if you have proper notes in your notebook.
From there, I file it away in the big four-inch binder.
But Wait! What’s In This Camera?
Ah ha! Ever pick up a camera, see that the film counter is at 13, and think to yourself, “What film is in this? When did I shoot with this last?”
In comes your handy dandy notebook!
Just flip through your notebook and look for a page that has the camera listed and doesn’t have the box checked… chances are, that’s your roll (unless you have tons of undeveloped rolls around the house – in which case, you should keep track of when you finished a roll as well).
Keeping Track of Instant Film
This is way easier in some ways, but in others, it’s harder – because you only have 8 or 10 frames and possibly go through them more quickly.
Using the Notebook to Track Instant Film
In my notebook, I write:
- Camera
- Type of film
- Date I put the pack in the camera
- Date I finished the pack
On the Instant Camera
I will add a little sticky and place it on the back or bottom of the camera. The sticky indicates what type of film I have in the camera: color, bw, special frames, etc.
Scanning Instant Film and Cloud Storage
I treat my instant film a little differently. Since I often add embroidery or other mixed media to my photos, I will sometimes scan them twice: once as a standalone photo and again once it’s a completed piece.
When I scan and name the standalone image, I name it like this: year_camera_date-photo. For example, if I am shooting with my Polaroid Sun 660 on June 1 this year, the photos will be labeled: 2024_Sun660_0601-01; 2024_Sun660_0601-02; 2024_Sun660_0601-03; etc.
If I’m shooting a pack or more in one outing – or when I’m traveling – I’m even more relaxed with my naming convention. I’ll drop the date and use the city or outing instead. For example: 2024_NowPlus_Miami-01; 2024_NowPlus_Miami-02; etc.
Physical Storage for Instant Film
The simplest part… I put them in an album in chronological order once they’ve been scanned.
Phew. That’s a lot.
But with the new year coming up, maybe now is a good time to start a naming convention to keep your photos organized!
Thank you so much, Jen! Jennifer is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and be sure to check out her other articles, like Lomography Black & White Film Guide and My Love for the Vintage Polaroid Sun 660.
You can also check out more of Jennifer’s work on her website, Instagram, and Etsy shop.
Let us know how you organize your film negatives and scans below in the comments!
Blog Comments
Erik Brammer
November 15, 2024 at 1:00 pm
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for your article and for providing a platform to share our workflow. Here is mine:
Crown + Flint app for tracking film inventory, films loaded in cameras to capture all shots with metadata including location , films awaiting development and films that have been archived.
Crown + Flint‘s export for exiftool, then exiftool to write the metadata to the scanned files.
Binders to store the negatives in sleeves. Epson label writer to identify the negative sleeves.
Cheers,
Erik
Ray Goulter
November 15, 2024 at 11:11 pm
The system you use to track your film negatives or transparencies is a good one – because it’s better than none at all! I use a numbering convention that not only shows shooting data, it sorts chronologically. I carry around several note books because I use 35mm, 120 & 220 roll film, 4″x5″ LF and 8″x10″ LF. An example of the data in my 4″x5″ notebook is: Film Carrier no. / Camera used / Type of film / Lens / shutter / f-stop / date / subject / filter/s / metering / notes. My notes would indicate if I deliberately under or over exposed and by how many stops, what developer I used and if I pushed or pulled development etc. My double-dark film holders are individually numbered, with each side being either A or B. When I take a photo I enter the details in ,my notebook – an absolute necessity. When developed my protocol for filing the film is the same for all types, identified by the number I give. For example: 20241116-M45-03 would tell me it was the 16th November 2024, I used B&W (Mono) film 4″x5″ and it was the third mono shot that day using 4″x5″ LF sheet of film. If the number was 20241105-T120-01 it would indicate 5th November 2024 using 120 slide (Transparency) film and it was the first shot for the day. I’ve often thought about adding the type of film (FP4 / HP5 etc.) but this data is in my notebooks for reference. My main concern is the chronological order for filing. The film negatives are always filed in chronological order, so that if I pull out a neg file for printing a photo, the number always means I can re-file it in proper chronological order. The same protocol applies to all my films. I’m not concerned about when I load the film/s or unload them. The last numbered image on the film tells me when it was unloaded anyway. It’s possible for me to have similar numbers for different double-dark slides shot using the same camera, but there will always be a defining difference. e.g. I might have 20241116-M45-01 and 20241116-C45-01. The ‘M’ and “C” difference tells me one was b&w neg and the other was colour neg. If it was “T” it would be transparency film and “IF” would be Infra-red (to define it from normal b&w film). Thus 20230126-IF810-02 would be the second photo for 26th January 2023 using an 8″x10″ camera and infra-red sheet of film. If the number was 20230126-IF35-02 I would have been using a 35mm camera. The numbering protocol could be expanded to indicate double-dark holder number, camera etc. but, as I said, if I need to refer to this I have my notebooks. I began a database computer file years ago to record all the data from my notebooks but I haven’t kept it up-to-date. (To-do list!) Important: make sure I keep all my notebooks in my darkroom cabinet when they’re full! By extension, when I digitise a particular negative I give the digital file the exact same number as the original negative/transparency. When I make a print either in the darkroom or from the digitised file, I write the exact same number on the back of the print.
Ray Goulter
November 16, 2024 at 7:17 pm
I can see that anyone starting their photography this century only needs to use ’24’ instead of ‘2024’. I have to use the full year number as most of my photography goes back to the 1900s. If I used, for example, ’84-M35-01′ instead of 1984-M35-01′, my sort would put all 21st century numbers before my 20th century numbers. The penalty for being born back in 1945!
Hasselbladuser
November 16, 2024 at 2:38 am
Great article,
I do use almost the same naming convention
24 for the year, then the Format: 24MF for medium format 24KB (kleinbeeld=Dutch for 135 format) and then the roll number: so 22KB11 of 24MF32.
I started with only one MF camera, but over the years I obtained more camera’s so starting from next year, I will use different coding:
HB for Hasselblad,
YM for Yashica,
RF for Rolleiflex,
SW for Hasselblad SWC camera.
Then I have a notebook, like your moleskin in which I record date of developing, which type of film, which camera/lens and subject.
In one of the comments above Crown + Flint was mentioned, and I will give that a try as well. All film strips are archived in sheets which I keep in ADOX binders, which is a box type with year(s) on the back. Chronologically, with an index sheet.
Keith
November 16, 2024 at 2:59 am
I use a similar system, but with each roll naming prefixed with a file number, using the same prefix e.g. A0234 for scan naming and negative file. Just to be sure I have all the right info preserved, and to save writing a lot, I shoot the first frame of 35mm of a handwritten note of what, when and where e.g. FOMOPan 400 + 1 – 2024/11/6. Tokyo. When I process and scan, the end date is recorded on that date.
Erik Brammer
November 16, 2024 at 3:38 am
Speaking of naming conventions, the way I name films in Crown + Flint goes as follows:
Camera-loaddate-film-EI
So it could be something like:
M3-20241116-HP5-1600
R35SE-20241102-Gold-200
500CM-A12-02-20241110-Portra160-160
For the Hasselblad, I also capture which back the film was loaded into, and since I have two A12 backs, they have an index. Why is that important? If I discover light leaks, uneven placement of the film, I can find out which back is the culprit and needs service.
Once exporting the JSON for exiftool from Crown + Flint, I also overwrite the „cf-frame“ source file name prefix with that long roll name. The index number of each frame stays of course. And the same file names are assigned to each scanned file. That way, it’s all synchronized and traceable. Takes 2 minutes max using mass find and replace.
Other users of Crown + Flint have developed scripts for the image editor of their choice to do that job. But I am fine doing it manually. Since I scan everything except 6×17 using my digital camera and do the conversion in Capture One, I apply the exif data using exiftool only to the exported TIFFs or JPGs, not to the original raw files as those would be corrupted in the process. Same goes for the Epson V850 6×17 scans which yield TIFFs – which I still edit in Capture One, e.g. dust cleaning. Also here, I apply the exif data only after exporting TIFFs or JPGs from Capture One.
The JPGs ultimately end up in my Apple Photos library that serves as my DAM and having everything accessible anywhere.